Caldey and Tenby For photographs scroll down to bottom
May 2010
with David Gleed and Jill Atkinson
Tuesday 25th May - under the bridge and up the twisty hill into Tenby, I looked for the ‘Deer park’ B & B on a balmy afternoon. By 6pm all of the 5 team members together with Team Leaders Dave and Jill (and myself as a ‘learner’ leader) were assembled and ready for a good meal and initial briefing in a local church hall. During the evening Dave and Jill led us down to the tiny harbour area and under a statue of Price Albert and on a sheltered seat out of the wind, we enjoyed our evening meditation.
Wednesday morning, after a hearty breakfast with all tastes catered for we went by minibus to visit Stackpole Quay, a beautiful area of coastline owned by the National Trust. Morning sunshine with fleecy clouds sailed across the sky, as we made our way up to the cliff top through dappled woodland. Wild flowers around our feet, we walked a couple of miles to Barafundal Bay and returned to the NT woodland car park area in time for a picnic lunch, and later coffee and cake in the restaurant! Next stop – St Govan’s Chapel, a tiny sacred place nestling into the cliffs with seagulls nests all around and orchids in a small area just above the chapel. Evening time brought a relaxing meal together and then off for a stroll down to the shore in late sunshine to share some readings and prayers.
On Thursday one of our party decided to take the opportunity for ‘time out’ in the ancient walled town of Tenby to visit places of interest and enjoy some retail therapy! The rest of the party departed in Dave’s mini-bus for Colby Gardens where the woodland was full of rhododendron and azalea in bloom, and a whole field given over to sunshine, and wild flowers. Some of us took a stroll around the formal walled garden and visited the Gift Shop. This had a number of ‘quirky’ and original pieces made by local potters, one of whom we met later on our evening walk .Returning ‘home’ and after fish n chips sitting at a picnic table beside the harbour, Dave led the evening meditation and a walk from Brother Thomas’s Garden where some local residents joined us through peaceful woodland and out along the cliff to Monkstone beach.
Friday …. our last ‘robust’ breakfast – and this proved fortuitous since this day brought our longest walk to Manorbier along the south bay from Tenby and up along the cliff-tops. Again sunshine and blue skies made our stops for drinks and a morning meditation in the sand dunes a wonderfully relaxing experience. This walk was quite a challenge for two of the group, since the path wound along a narrow ledge above the sea. Myself and another friend, not having quite the head for heights took our time in a leisurely fashion accompanied by our stalwart leader Dave, whilst the rest of the group hurried ahead to catch a cream tea before closing time! Again one of our party opted to ride in style on the bus to Manorbier and enjoyed a quiet afternoon on the beach sunning herself ….time out…. blissful relaxation! We all met back at Tenby. The evening time brought us to the tiny ancient church of Gumfreston, where we sat amongst candles and flowers in the dusk of a summers evening to enjoy some quiet prayers and reflections.
Saturday …. a change of tempo! Expected rain brought some anxiety as to whether the ferry to Caldey Isle would sail. Always undaunted – our leader Dave opted to catch the 8-30 mail boat – which in fact, was the only boat out that day! Rough seas and rain made the journey unforgettable …. in the small boat owned by the Cistercian monks on the island. Our hosts in the Guesthouse put on the heating and after a hearty breakfast most visited the Church to join the monks in their mid-day vigil of sext. The Abbey on Caldey was owned by an Anglican order but during the early 20th century was sold to Cistercians from the Belgian Abbey of Scourmont. It is, though hidden from sight of the mainland, a very imposing building. Rain and wind meant tourists were absent, and so we had the island to ourselves enjoying peaceful walks, a film on the Cistercian way of life, and some wonderful hospitality – especially the wholesome home cooking!!! The drawing room with an inglenook fireplace looking out to the duck pond and tall trees gently swaying in the onshore breeze was a welcome haven at days end.
Sunday on Caldey is ‘rest’ day, so once again no tourists! After joining the monks for Sunday Worship in their light filled church, we walked the quiet woodland paths, drank in the peaceful dreamy atmosphere of St Illtyd’s Chapel, a Saxon foundation amid the ruins of an ancient monastery in the centre of the isle. Some of us secretly examined the chocolate factory nearby which we knew would be selling ‘hand made’ chocolate next day!! In the afternoon Jill led us on a thoughtful pilgrimage around the island, with wonderful views out to sea from the south facing lighthouse. Most evenings Brother Titus turned up to give thanks for the meal, which lent a quiet grace to proceedings. One member of the party managed to attend all seven vigils in the church, including the 3-15 am ‘Vigils’ service over a 24 hour period - the rest looked on in admiration!
Monday brought many tourists and lots of free time in the ‘pattern’ of our day. Most enjoyed some retail therapy in the islands Perfumery, Gift Shops and Post Office, and Chocolate factory which during the short summer months when the island is open to visitors brings the monks some welcome income. Some escaped……. to quiet areas to read and enjoy sunshine, chocolate and cool drinks away from the crowds. Perhaps it would be fitting to end with a reflection from one of the Cistercian brothers, David Hodges. His numerous poetry books ‘reflection’s of monastic life in an island setting….. seascapes, wilderness, the flight of birds, Celtic sailor saints, medieval mystics, modern martyrs, the themes of suffering and forgiveness and an array of contemporary issues’, (Hodges D - 'Delayed by Rough Seas' 2003) all provide material for thought.
The Celtic, pilgrim, sailor saints
Set out to find the promised land
In open boats
Of skins stretched out on wood:
The Cross and just themselves
Was all they carried.
Carrying within their hearts
The God they sought;
Exiles for the love of Christ,
They hoped to reach their true home……..
We arrived back in Tenby on Tuesday morning together with two cattle sharing our small boat in a bracing swell but we did have Brother Titus on board too……which gave our pilgrim group some comfort!
Tina Barton