Furness and the S Lakes For photographs scroll down to bottom
May 2009
with Paul and Hazel Heppleston
It's not often one stays in an historic building, but our week in Low Furness was one such. Swarthmoor Hall (nr the lovely market town of Ulverston) was, in the 17th century, the home of Margaret Fell, who, after the death of her husband, Judge Thomas Fell, married George Fox. Thomas had been very sympathetic to the new thinking and at Swarthmoor the early formation of the Quaker movement developed and spread from there world-wide. The house retains much of its Jacobean character and sits in lovely gardens and grounds, tended by Bill, who is the epitome of a Friend - quiet, thoughtful, committed, socially-active.
Here we has the use of the two self-catering flats, but we combined into ine for all our 'together' times. Some had come by car, some by train - but we were to use shanks' pony and railways for the first two days.
Day 1 - train from Ulverston to Grange-over-Sands. From here a taxi to the start of our first walk across limestone pavement to climb Hampsfell and thence down to Cartmel Priory, place of peace and inspiration with several sculptures by Josefina de Vasconcellos. Past Cartmel racecourse and a walk along country tracks and bluebell lanes to Cark station and a return journey to Ulverston station and a short walk home. Today was a good introduction to the Lake District peninsulas.
Day 2 - walking from the house we made our way southwards, aiming for Furness Abbey, the great 12th century Cistercian foundation near Barrow-in-Furness. A first stop was at Great Urswick with its lovely church : silence, song and spirit. Then across fields and beside stone walls, heralded by young cattle and distant trains - and greeted at the abbey by drizzle. It later turned to heavier rain and most were glad to get on a servce bus back to Swarthmoor, whilst Paul walked into Barrow to fetch the hire car for tomorrow.
Day 3 - A drive to Grasmere enabled us to start our up-and-down (literally) walk up to Alcock Tarn, a hidden gem to which very few people go. A Great Crested Grebe watched us lunching high up about above the valley from which we could easily see Windermere, Coniston and - nearby - Helm Crag, one of Wainwright's 'Top 6' hills. The descent had to be taken carefully, but there was a welcome, grassy rest at the bottom of Greenhead Gill where, amongst the boulders of the tumbling beck, there was found a large (Perla) stonefly nymph. There's something 'real' about finding small, wild creatures from amongst the rocks of a mountain stream; we are in their territory and are called to tread lightly. From here a gentle walk back into Grasmere and a bit of wandering-around; lots of other people doing the same thing made our time in seemingly remote hills above the village all the more special.
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Day 4 - Wet. And more wet. We split for the main part of the day and some stayed in and around Ulverston, whilst four others went to Walney Nature Reserve Walney Island is an odd-shaped peninsula hanging down below Barrow. Vickerstown is its most famous settlement, looking across to the (very) enormous BAe hangers where our government's Trident nuclear submarines were/are built (say no more). The nature reserve is at the very eastern end of the 'island' and is home to a huge gull colony. This is where the quartet walked steadily on in the rain, past a helpful interpretation centre and round by 'dive-bomb alley' where the numbers of attentive gulls nests was astounding. This is one of the biggest gulleries in the country and was a tremendous experience, even in the rain.
Day 5 - Today we were back in the 'Lakes' proper, with a lovely meandering walk starting in Little Langdale. From here the track took us past old slate quarries to Tilberthwaite, on to Hodge Close and finally Tarn Hows.
This was a gentle walk taking us through a wide range of habitats and scenery and ending up in heaven.
'Heaven' was the small Baptist chapel at Hawkshead Hill where the husband- and-wife team of pastors have created an inspirational place for worship and silence, for refreshment and peace, for space and companionship. It is truly a gem and we were blessed by being able to end or day with a time of reflective worship in this lovely environment.
Day 6 - (Sunday) We tried to find appropriate places to worship, between us fanning out in the neighbourhood. We felt it was important to engage with the local community in this way and not remain totally separate all the time. Some found good church fellowships; others were a little frustrated. But we came together for a good lunch at a good Ulverston vegetarian/vegan restaurant. The rest of he day was free for us to begin to assimilate what the week was meaning for us, for tomorrow we were to leave....
Quakers - since their invisible presence was all around us in Swarthmoor, it's right to say something about how we reacted to their influence. Some of us were Quakers by leaning; others of us had strong links with Friends, both with individuals and with establishments. Here in the old house we were shown round the rooms where George and Margaret slept and lived - and an original copy of the Book of Common Prayer dated 1660, one of only very few in existence.
Each evening we were able to share in their Epilogue in the Great Hall of Swarthmoor, where, surrounded by centuries-old furnishings and pictures, we sat in silence for 15 minutes, absorbing God's presence in the same way that George Fox had done in this very room those 100s of years before. It was a truly inspirational place in which to stay and we vowed to return.
Day 7 - departure from Cumbria. A dry day, but strong heart-pullings were felt as we drove away.
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Furness 2009
Above Grasmere
Lunch at Alcock Tarn
Above Grasmere;
Helm Crag behind
To Greenhead Gill
Walney gull colony
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Over Slater's Bridge,
Little Langdale
In Little Langdale
Tilberthwaite Farm
the Open Gate....
Swarthmoor Hall
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On Hampsfell, Grange
Cartmel Priory
Ready for evening
worship in the garden
At Swarthmoor
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