Cadair Idris & Mary Jones For photographs scroll down to bottom
September 2008
with Paul and Hazel Heppleston
'Come on in, the kettle's on’ : a familiar welcome to all Pilgrim Adventurers on arrival. This time we were at a 15th. century farmhouse (photo 1) and barn conversion - once the meeting place of the early 'Welsh Quakers - on the edge of Dolgellau and our home for the coming week. In the comfortable living and dining room and with a cosy log fire burning and we were soon welcoming each other and chatting before our first meal together.
Next morning a local walk took us up through ancient woodland beside the exuberant River Clywedog as it tumbled down over rocks and boulders. 'Torrent Walk’ described it well as we picked our own way along the stony path, the air filled with the sounds of rushing water. At the top we were able to visit the Brithdir church of St Mark, owned by the 'Friends of Friendless Churches' since it became redundant in 2005. Built just over a century ago it is remarkable for its copper pulpit and altar as well as for the beautifully carved animals and birds on the choir stalls.
The afternoon enabled us to explore the market town of Dolgellau, once a centre of the woollen weaving industry and still presenting an old-world charm with its houses and shops of Welsh stone and narrow alleyways between. The Tourist Information Centre displays give some interesting historical facts and pictures of the Quaker movement in the area. A cup of tea and cake in a local cafe restored our strength before the return home for a meal and fellowship.
A calm, sunless day welcomed us as we set of for the ‘Precipice Walk’ (photos 2,3). This began with a silent meander beside lakes Cynwch and Faner - motionless on that still morning as we each listened to the sounds around us and to our inner reflections. As we rounded the end of the hill, Foel Cynwch, the valley below, suddenly spread out before us and the splendour of the Mawddach estuary came into view. It was all so unexpected after the still lakeside walk -a real 'wow' moment. We continued around the other side of the 'precipice1 - a steep drop below to the road. It was an exhilarating walk but not for the faint-hearted.
Barefooted across 25 miles of grass and mud, stones and rocks, over hills and down in the valleys, running over the easier stretches: this is the story (no, not of us!) of 16 year-old Mary Jones who,, in 1800, struggled from her village of Llanfihangel, near Cadair Idris, to Bala to realise her dream of owning a Welsh bible (photos 4,5). This story is one of immense faith and determination which captured our imaginations as we covered some of the rough terrain, over which she travelled on our next walk.
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Starting from Dol-Ffanog we set off by the lovely Tal-y-llyn in warm sunshine. A group of us then made a steep ascent to the track above by Pentre farm. We all met up again on a woodland track and continued up to the grassy top of the Nant yr Eira valley. Here, as we enjoyed a packed lunch, we were entertained by the skills of two farm dogs rounding up the sheep and heading them uphill to higher ground. As we continued down, the grassy valley was deceptive, with several small streams, boggy areas and rocks to negotiate. This was only the start of the rough terrain over which Mary Jones would have travelled. Clad as we were in stout boots or shoes it was no easy descent and we silently reflected on feat of physical endurance and how, too easily, we take our own facilities and comforts for granted.
As we clambered down the last boggy part, one of our intrepid group experienced an 'Excalibur' moment as she fell into a boggy patch and withdrew a brown arm from its miry depths! A final rocky descent brought us to Llanfihangel-y-Pennant. Here we read Mary's story and learned more of her life and family from the display in the church of St Michael.
Our challenge next day was to climb on Cadair Idris, not necessarily to the summit, but to the heights of our own satisfaction. See photos 6-9. We took the route from Mary's village - a longer but less steep ascent - on a perfect, cloudless morning. As we climbed higher the peace and beauty was awesome and one felt absorbed into the atmosphere of mountains and sky. After a lunch break we were renewed for the last stretch which, although stony, was still not too steep. One of our group had painful feet, performing a 'Mary Jones1 by climbing barefoot for a fair distance; good for concentrating the mind….
With views over Llyn y Gadair came the final assault - and then we were there on the rocky summit. There followed 15 minutes of taking in the views and a necessary photo call before the descent. This took time and more energy, but tempered for each of us by the knowledge of, and with some surprise at, our own achievements. It was a matchless day. Our evening reflection that night included moving contributions from everyone.
All too soon our final day dawned and a walk on fairly level ground planned. This began along Llynnau Gregennen. Again the sun shone as we took in the tranquil beauty all around us where patches of bell-heather and ling still showed some colour. The path led down by the River Gwynant and then steeply through woodland to the Kings Youth Hostel in its wonderful setting, with a backdrop of Cadair Idris. The return walk of this circular route was also lovely. Thoughts of a meal out in Dolgellau began to occupy our minds as we returned home and this final evening meal together proved to be excellant - in a lovely old restaurant, once a 16th. century Jail House. This was rounded off at home by an evening of stories, songs and skits in an atmosphere of fun and friendship and in front of our usual blazing fire, lit as always by Nancy. Evening prayers brought our last day to a close.
Next morning came our closing prayers and the feeling for many, as we said our goodbyes, of a spiritual feeling of closeness with each other which had built up almost imperceptibly over the week. So it was with feelings of emotion that we went our ways with the warmth of our fellowship in the security of God's love.
Alex Polaine
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1 Cadair from lounge
2 lake by Precipice walk
3 Precipice walk and Mawddach estuary
4 Above Talyllyn Lake
5 Llanfihangel (Mary Jones' church)
6 Cadair Idris from afar
7 Cadair summit
8 The Cadair team
9 From near the summit
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